Coco Chanel? Diana Vreeland? Francine du Plessix Gray? Anonymous?
Question for Quote Investigator: Statements about stylish clothing and beautiful furnishings are often opaque. Here is an example:
Elegance is refusal.
This statement has been attributed to two prominent fashion mavens: Coco Chanel and Diana Vreeland. I have never seen a solid citation. Would you please help trace this saying?
Reply from Quote Investigator: QI has found no substantive evidence that Coco Chanel employed this statement. She died in 1971 and received credit by 2000.
Diana Vreeland worked at “Harper’s Bazaar” from 1936 to 1963 followed by a job at “Vogue” from 1963 to 1971 where she became the editor-in-chief. Later she acted as a special consultant to The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
In 1980 Vreeland with Christopher Hemphill published an over-sized fashion photography book titled “Allure”. The work included commentary from Vreeland about fashion. Boldface added to excerpts by QI:1
“Fashion is a passing thing—a thing of fancy, fantasy, and feeling. Elegance is innate. It has nothing to do with being well-dressed. It’s a quality possessed by certain thoughts and certain animals.
Vreeland mentioned two exemplars of elegance: an animal and an actress. Next, she employed the saying under examination:
So I said, “Gazelles have elegance. And Audrey Hepburn — magnificently.” Then I said something I’ve always known. I don’t know who it’s a quote from. I didn’t get it from you, shall we say, and I didn’t make it up, but I’ve known it all my life.
“Elegance,” I said, “is refusal.”
Interestingly, Vreeland suggested that she was not the creator of the saying, but somehow she had known it her entire life.
Below are additional selected citations in chronological order.
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